I think I was actually here (which is quite remarkable because my one trip to Japan was almost wholly clueless as far as sightseeing destinations)! It left quite an impression on me. It reminded me a bit of Frank Lloyd Wright's Unitarian church.

Marxy, I think the people who thought of you as a timid concept-oriented scholar must be pretty impressed now and will probably think twice before coming after you. You didn't hesitate to daringly brave the taboos of the Japanese entertainment establishment -i.e. the interdiction to take pictures at Lion, as mentionned on the Lion website- to satisfy the daily need for enlightment of your faithful readers (and potential informers)!

I hope your server is located in international waters... Japanese police is no joke...

Who says I took these pictures?

I feel like Ichiran is kinda the Ramen-equivalent. Even though the ramen is blah and I've never seen them discipline the youngstas for talking...

Good point. Just mention the copyright then.

This entry could almost run with Momus' name on it. Are you channeling?

1926...built during the reconstruction of the Imperial Capital, destroyed, and rebuilt again. The website says they have 5000 selections and take requests (but may refuse anything too modern).

How about another little two character play to accompany the last line of your post?

That cafe sounds too good to be true; I was struck by the fact that the web site of such a civilized-sounding establishment would feature that most obnoxious of all homepage atrocities, the unsolicited MIDI stream.

It sounds like the late lamented Scala-Za in Shinjuku (baroque music, frilly Bavarian waitresses, ivy, serious coffee, 1950s plush seats with antimacassars), demolished suddenly in 2003. Let's hope the lion roars at the wrecker's ball. But this is Tokyo, nothing is sacred and no building stands forever.

Lion is unfortunately not so snobby about the coffee or too obsessed with waitress costumes - only strict about the silence (and photography). The cafe is perhaps the only commercial venue in all of Tokyo yet to be demolished over the years to make room for something more shiny.

The reasons:

1) Frequented by lots of loyal old men, not kids with promiscious tastes.
2) In the love hotel district, so rent is cheap and no respectible businesses want to take over the property.
3) Verging on landmark status.

"I feel like Ichiran is kinda the Ramen-equivalent. Even though the ramen is blah and I've never seen them discipline the youngstas for talking..."

You think Ichiran is blah? I'm usually quite happy with their ramen.
Plus, you can BYOB.

Wow, I didn't know about the BYOB thing, that's cool. I think it's a little better than average, but don't like their chashu very much.　Issei Ramen in Toritsu-Daigaku on the Tokyu-Toyoko line is my favorite ramen shop.

what's the name of this literally underground café in shinjuku that has an old viennese feel and lots of dust on ots worn out couches?

That could be the new Scala-Za. The old cafe closed on December 31st 2002 and the building was demolished. But the new Scala-Za opened on October 1st 2003 in a basement near Shinjuku station West exit with "Eurapean style and Asian taste".

I was also thinkin the opening read like momuses. I hereby propose that M&M do an extended piece as cowriters. I'll bit tittlered pink if it happens and promise to buy drinkies for M&M at the cafe of choice.

Oh, thanks to both M's for the cafe infos. I hope to put em to use someday.

We often end up writing about the same stuff by serendipity, or finishing each other's sentences (not the way the other intended, of course). But we have also collaborated on an entry, so the drinks are on you.

meh. april 1 entry. guess it counts. email me the when and where (in Tokyo of course)

There is a cafe just like this in Kyoto, across from Demachiyanagi Station and above (oddly enough) a pachinko parlor.

I think odot is thinking of L'ambre (らんぶる) one of my favorite cafes in Tokyo.

i miss the now long-gone 'CLASSIC' off the shoutengai in Nakano. it was also a classical music cafe, but run by students from Tama-bi. you could talk, you could bring in whatever food you wanted, and the refills on coffee were half-priced. there were only three menu choices, American coffee, orange juice, or tea, and the place with two stories with a hole in the second that looked back down to the first (and felt like it was going to completely collapse)......ahh

I think we're slowly putting together that Lion's the last of this breed.

Brad: There's a Cafe De L'Ambre in Ginza that served me the best cup of coffee I had on a recent trip to Japan. It's the only place I visited that emphasised that its beans were aged. I wrote (somewhat inarticulately) about it here:

http://sarmoung.livejournal.com/73805.html

Marxy: I'm not quite convinced it's game over yet for such places. There are still a few classical music kissa about the place and Lion, which has considerable charm no doubt, isn't the only place in Tokyo to offer a similar experience (the Nakano Classic is a sad loss if it's gone though). My impression trawling through Toyko (and Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe, Nara, Naha even) kissaten was that there is something of a brave (last?) stand being fought by such places. Nostalgia isn't necessarily sufficient to keep them going though, but there's a certain parallel with the revival of interest in the classic British cafe (pronounced "caff" in this instance):

http://www.classiccafes.co.uk/Intro.html

Again, Lion isn't coffee-obsessed. I like their milk coffee, but I doubt they're putting much effort into it. I think this is where it differs from the normal Showa-esque kissaten around town.

I think odot is thinking of L'ambre (らんぶる) one of my favorite cafes in Tokyo.

But he did say "literally underground", ie a basement. L'ambre is at ground level.

Dood. RENOIR.

Oh, come on. Renoir is a bland hold over from the 80s. They appear to be in decline as well.

I agree, a dying breed, and I don't mean to diss el Lion. But those baroque chemistry-set coffee drips, the velour furniture - different in every branch, yet always fully Renoir - and the 120 yen egg soup and coffee morning set ... I mean, as I think I said, DOOD. Plus wi-fi (snap!) and a clientele with the biggest, squarest eyeglasses I have yet to find. Bland it ain't. Sure, the music might be better at some other kissaten. There IS no music at Renoir.

My last post was deleted so if I appear here twice, forgive me. Anyway yes - a dying breed, and I'm certain not trying to get on the Lion or any of the classier kissaten. But I think Renoir deserves respect for slightly different reasons: the branding (each outlet different, yet each indubitably Renoir), the baroque coffee drips, and the 120-yen egg/soup/toast morning set. Plus its bubble-era rep, which attracts a wicked kind of square-glassed, amphetamine-taking amakudari crowd. Lunchtime there is for MEN. It's not remotely classy. And it's got velour out the ass, if that's one's thing.