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April 6, 2006
Two Things About Working in Akasaka
Akasaka is a charmless business district, filled with grey office buildings, yellowed interiors, blue pinstripes, double-breasted middle-managers, a gravity that sucks all desks to the center of each room, 600 yen cups of coffee, 1000 yen lunch sets, and spotless concrete walkways.
Also in the background:
1) The Ultranationalists - Once an hour, uyoku soundtrucks slowly stroll down the main drag, either shouting incomprehensible messages or playing old glorious war songs. The Diet building is nearby, so we're are probably not the intended audience, but we get three to four free shows per day. The cops follow in tortoise-style pursuit and still have not found a legal solution to the noise problem after fifty odd years of this aural terrorism. I run to the window to make out the banners: one today was railing against "red anti-Japan elements" which I am assuming is code for the Japan Communist Party and the other non-threatening remnants of Japan's once-strong Leftist movement. Yesterday, the kanji on the banners were all written right to left - an orthographical protest against the Occupation's post-war changes to the Japanese writing system. In theory, they should logically stop using all kanji and the kanji-derivated kana systems, seeing that those evil symbols arrived from the Red Demon next door.
2) The Yakuza - A criminal syndicate has a corporate office in the building right next to my workplace. In the good old days, each crime family would proudly print their name on the front doors, but now the grumps upstairs consider that illegal. There is a constant pool of white Mercedes sedans parked on the corner, with various heavies waiting for the VIPs to emerge. Bad haircuts, bad suits, bad sunglasses. I'm not an expert on organized crime, but I still find the yakuza to be a different monster than their American brothers. These aren't immigrant groups creating alternate economies, in need of self-protection against mainstream mobs, working mainly with illegal markets. The yakuza is a major economic player in Japan, with direct connections to the political machine and an active political arm (with loud soundtrucks). The greatest threat to this ingrained system is not the cops or the bureaucrats, but the infiltration of foreign capital. Global capitalism needs transparency, concrete results, rises in stock prices - not a bunch of inefficient thugs getting artificial results through violence. The yakuza may play mean, but international capitalism has a pretty harsh list of victories as well. This should be an interesting gang war.
Posted by marxy at April 6, 2006 10:58 PM
Comments
RE: yakuza, I agree with you in principle, but in practice, I'm not sure if international capitalism will actually effect yakuza. Japan's the #2 economy in the world- if Japan's participation in global capital markets hasn't crushed Japanese organized crime yet, what would be the evidence that it would be crushed in the future?
In general though, organized crime has been falling in influence around the world, be it in Palermo, in New Jersey or in Akasaka (or Osaka for that matter.)
Posted by: Gen Kanai at April 7, 2006 2:37 AM
Well said about the yakuza. While they certainly aren't the only vested interests who stand to lose by better transparency and structural reform, I can see why they fan the anti-foreign capital fires as shrilly as they do.
Posted by: adamu at April 7, 2006 6:14 AM
A sort of old book "Authority Without Power" fell into my lap recently... It takes the yakuza as necessary as an enforcer of contracts that the goverment has failed to enforce for hundreds of years. Owing especially to the very independent muras in japan outside the capital, the yakuza have long provided not just alternate economies, but alternate contract (and law) enforcement.
The government has a very long history of being really soft on debt default. At the same time, the muras, with their distaste for the feds, tended to turn to local powers who could be counted on for quick, uncomplicated and reliable conflict resolution, compared to the governments methods.
Hell, the yakuza's fight against modern economic systems predates the meiji constitution.
Posted by: nate at April 7, 2006 10:21 AM
Japan's the #2 economy in the world- if Japan's participation in global capital markets hasn't crushed Japanese organized crime yet, what would be the evidence that it would be crushed in the future?
Because we are now talking about partial and full foreign ownership of Japanese companies, not just Japanese companies trading in global markets. Now the actual managers and board members will demand a certain economic behavior that is not best served by partnership with underworld elements.
While they certainly aren't the only vested interests who stand to lose by better transparency and structural reform
Seeing the yakuza in decrepit Akasaka makes you realize how much they are a cornerstone of the old system.
Owing especially to the very independent muras in japan outside the capital, the yakuza have long provided not just alternate economies, but alternate contract (and law) enforcement.
When the general economic system avoids "low context" legal structures, it gives powerful elements the ability to quickly gain control.
n general though, organized crime has been falling in influence around the world, be it in Palermo, in New Jersey or in Akasaka
The worst thing to ever happen to the Mafia was the Cold War ending. The U.S. government liked to use the viciously anti-Red organized criminals for all sorts of jobs.
In the U.S. domestically, however, the Kennedy administration did help push out the Mafia from a lot of their mainstream activities. I'm not sure you can say that there was ever a "Big Break" in Japanese yakuza economic power. Clearly, there's been a slow fade, but certain above-the-ground industries are still built upon a base of underworld types.
Posted by: marxy at April 7, 2006 11:13 AM
You ever heard of this? From the Wikipedia article:
Yakuza frequently engage in a uniquely Japanese form of extortion, known as sōkaiya (総会屋). In essence, this is a specialised form of protection racket. Instead of harassing small businesses, the yakuza harasses a stockholders' meeting of a larger corporation. They simply scare the ordinary stockholder with the presence of yakuza operatives, who obtain the right to attend the meeting by a small purchase of stock. They also engage in simple blackmail, obtaining incriminating or embarrassing information about a company's practices or leaders. Once the yakuza gain a foothold in these companies, they will work for them to protect the company from having such internal scandals exposed to the public. Some companies still include payoffs as part of their annual budget.
Posted by: DB at April 7, 2006 12:08 PM
I once attended a stock holders' meeting as a "bodyguard" to deal with sokai-ya. Luckily the meeting went smoothly, seeing that the last thing I can physically do is drag people out of rooms.
Posted by: marxy at April 7, 2006 2:46 PM
The view from a restaurant high up in the TBS tower provided a wonderful view of Akasaka's massive dirt crater/construction site.
Check out internet cafe 知・好・楽, with free drink vending machines.
Recently saw a Nationalist "show" near Ikebukuro Parco. The trumpet-laden outro, with the main speechmaker bowing on the top of his truck, was quite effective. But the big hinomaru fluttering behind him was filthy. At least take it to a coin laundry before you go out on the streets with it.
Posted by: jasong at April 7, 2006 5:42 PM
Hey I used to work in Akasaka (up on the hill, in the building next to Akasaka Park Bldg), but I can't really remember seeing any Yakuza... Mustn't have paid enough attention!
Whereabouts in Akasaka do you work, Marxy?
Posted by: Johan at April 7, 2006 11:58 PM
hinomaru fluttering behind him was filthy
recently saw a bunch of those black trucks sleeping under the expressway in some no-man'sland around tennouzu/haneda (needless to say no coin-laundries around) - would be pretty hard to keep groomed under such conditions.
Posted by: alin at April 8, 2006 3:22 AM
I think filth is sometimes supposed to build or demonstrate strength of character, same rationale for schools lacking soap and toilet paper. Real samurai don't need such decadent foreign accoutrements, real samurai use wood:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Nara_period_toilet_paper.jpg
Posted by: guest at April 8, 2006 8:11 AM
When I worked between Toranomon & Kamiyacho, we used to get groups of about 30 soundtrucks & busses going down Sakurada Dori. They were either just getting done annoying the Russians or on their way to Nagatacho. Would be so loud that no one in the building could do any work while they were around, the fact that traffic was heavy didnt help either.
Posted by: Chris_B at April 8, 2006 7:39 PM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Nara_period_toilet_paper.jpg
these are great. very lohas, would be great after taking a slow shit
Posted by: alin at April 13, 2006 8:48 PM
http://libcom.org/library/worker-insurgency-osaka
http://libcom.org/news/article.php/utsobo-park-report-170206
Greetings from Osaka.
Posted by: sphinx at April 18, 2006 4:06 AM
"I think filth is sometimes supposed to build or demonstrate strength of character, same rationale for schools lacking soap and toilet paper. Real samurai don't need such decadent foreign accoutrements, real samurai use wood"
If all it takes to be a real samurai is filth, lack of soap, and improvized toilet paper, I'm in.
Posted by: Nevin Zehr at June 7, 2006 3:48 PM
