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December 18, 2006
Krispy Kreme: Only Southerners Can Criticize
![]() | Glazed donut makers Krispy Kreme opened in Japan last Friday, and although lines were full of peacefully-exuberant locals, dissent is brewing stronger than the accompanying coffee. "Krispy Kreme donuts are too big and too sweet...Mister Donut donuts keep better in terms of taste," says KBC Securities analyst Kyomi Ando. |
These sentiments are echoed all across the blogocube - everyone complains and moans about the "sweetness" of KK donuts, as if donuts were a nutritious part of the balanced diet before the Winston-Salem-based company diabolically dipped them vats of corn syrup.
The problem with all these hostile opinions is that none of the speakers are from the Southern United States. Krispy Kreme is a "Southern thing" - and like the t-shirt proffers, "you wouldn't understand." When I grew up in Northwest Florida, I had to pass the KK on the way to school everyday, and you better believe that I swerved my car from Cervantes St. into the KK parking lot when I saw the "HOT DOUGHNUTS NOW" sign flashing. (I generally like the kruellers which are good hot or cold, although they get considerably less attention than the glazed ring. Chocolate-covered white cream-filled is also good - not to be confused with the chocolate-cream filled, which is great. Chocolate-covered chocolate cream-filled crosses that line between paradise and madness.)
Krispy Kreme are a product of Southern culture, and I find it terribly rude, inconsiderate, academically-suspect, neo-conservative, universalist, and terribly rude to make judgments on OUR culture, which we have been very generous to open up to the rest of the world. We are saving Cheerwine for a 2010 global rollout, but we better not catch you badmouthing that either when the time comes.
Now practically speaking, I only lived in the South for around 12 years (3 in MS, 9 in FL), which means my Southernness Index (SI) is only 42.86. So if I judged Krispy Kreme as "10 out of 10," which I certainly would, the SI modifies my judgment, meaning the weight of my final critical pronouncement within this discussion is 4.29. That's not exactly a massive vote of confidence in the scheme of things.
But for all those other critics.... I doubt Kyomi Ando has ever lived in the South (a big fat 0 on the SI). Her opinions are thus worth 0.
Since opinions about cultures other than your own are invalid and worthless, and frankly speaking, terribly rude, I recommend you don't even open your mouth to make sounds that could be construed as negative statements. Fill that mouth with glazed lard instead.
Posted by marxy at December 18, 2006 1:44 PM
Comments
For the record, I find Mister Donuts Japan's most consistently underwhelming/disappointing fast food. The brand is like the Hall and Oates of donuts: dead in the U.S., still going strong in Japan.
Posted by: marxy at December 18, 2006 2:47 PM
Mr Donuts are the only edible doughnuts i've ever come across. (don't feel ill afterwards). whether it's the retro one in Asakusa or any inaka ekimae or the designers' one in higashi nakano Mr. Donuts rocks. lovely theme song as well. the wabi-esque, understated 80\ tofu doughnuts (and i'm no hippie tofu-eater) were great, shame they terminally declined.
Posted by: alin at December 18, 2006 2:58 PM
I'm not sure you understand donuts if you presume "not feeling ill afterwards" as an initial condition of consumption.
Posted by: marxy at December 18, 2006 3:03 PM
Parables aside, we only recently got our own KK here in Columbia, MO. Before that, any time someone in our circle of friends made the five-hour round-trip drive to the St. Louis airport, they were wordlessly expected to return with more than just a visiting parent. Those hexagonal fuckers would be cold, congealed, and mostly consumed by the time they reached us, and we gratefully sucked the grease stains out of the cardboard. Now, we have a dumpster to root through, like civilized folk.
In New Mexico, there was a place called Spudnuts, that used potato flour, but I was too young to remember if it was a good idea or not.
Posted by: Channing Kennedy at December 18, 2006 3:50 PM
MO of course is a "border state."
Posted by: marxy at December 18, 2006 4:12 PM
Though my PS3 post may say otherwise, I hate waiting in lines. However, as a Southerner, I felt it was my patriotic duty to go wait in line for Krispy Kreme. Which I did. I shared it with my friend, whose first impression was "I can feel my blood sugar spike!" I think she meant it as a complaint but I took it, with pride, as a compliment.
(I prefer chocolate-covered glazed...the double sweet punch assaults the roof of my mouth like acid soaked in cocaine.)
(I wonder, as a born Southerner who lived there for a total of 27 years, what my SI is.)
Posted by: Brad at December 18, 2006 4:31 PM
I estimate it at 85~90.
Posted by: marxy at December 18, 2006 4:43 PM
Marxy, Mr Donuts didn't die out in the US-it was acquired by Dunkin Donuts, and each franchise store was given a choice to convert or stick with their old brand. Only a few held out.
Incidentally, when Mr Donuts came to Taiwan just last year, it was billed as the big new thing from Japan, and they opened the first 3-4 stores in high end places like Mitsukoshi. Naturally there were long lines.
In Manila there are cruddy Mr. Donuts stands and cruddy Dunkin Donuts stands right next to each other in the train stations. I prefer the soft doughiness of Dunkin Donuts to the solid dryness of a Mr Donuts. Krispy Kreme is fantastic within about 2 minutes of coming out of the fryer, but after that kind of sucks.
Posted by: Mutantfrog at December 18, 2006 5:18 PM
I see you're being facetious, but you inspired me to take a quick look at technorati anyway. There may be some astroturf involved, but reactions look pretty favorable so far (except for some people didn't like the idea of lining up for an hour to eat a donut). Apparently the donuts are less sweet than "Donut Plant" in Shirogane. And they hand out free samples just like the one I used to go to in Virginia.
I forced Krispy Kreme on several Japanese friends when I lived in DC/Virginia and got mostly positive reactions and on it even ended up being the highlight of one person's trip.
Once the hype dies down I guess we'll see how popular they remain in Japan.
Posted by: Adamu at December 18, 2006 5:19 PM
I remember walking through the LES, crossing Delancey (so cinematic, right?) to try out gourmet donuts from Donut Plant, but I was pretty disappointed for the price. I had some leftover cake donuts at the Donut Plant in Hiroo a while back and they were also so so. As much as I have always loved the KK (even cold - I don't get why you people are so picky - just put them in the microwave if you have to), I also think Dunkin Donuts is far and away better than Mr. Donuts.
Posted by: marxy at December 18, 2006 5:45 PM
Also -
Every time I go into Mr. Donuts, it's 95% female. Clearly, these locations fit into an old pattern of "sweets only being for women and children" in Japan opposed to the Homer Simpson model of donut gorging in the U.S. So far, the globalized lines for KK seem to combine the two perspectives, but I bet success still comes down to, do Japanese women want to kill time at a KK shop? That strikes me as the success of Mr. Donuts, not the actual food itself. KK seems to be a more product-oriented brand than an experiential-oriented one, so it would have to introduce a new kind of sweets consumption - a 21st century donut, if you will.
Posted by: marxy at December 18, 2006 5:48 PM
-So if I judged Krispy Kreme as "10 out of 10," which I certainly would, the SI modifies my judgment, meaning the weight of my final critical pronouncement within this discussion is 4.29.
Wouldn't it be fairer to express this as a margin of error proportional to your degree of un-southernness? This would make your score anywhere from 4.29 to 15.71 out of ten.
Posted by: dotdash at December 18, 2006 5:58 PM
Any reports so far of Chinese immigrants queing up to buy KK donuts at the orders of shady underworld lords?
Also, man, I'm starting to believe this whole culture shtick: >>[...] I had to pass the KK on the way to school everyday, and you better believe that I swerved my car [...]<< I had to read that twice, "school" and "my car" so don't go together for me.
Posted by: der at December 18, 2006 6:06 PM
I rode the bus for a year, but getting up at 5:20 every morning took a toll on me.
Posted by: marxy at December 18, 2006 6:15 PM
5:20? Outch.
No slight intended, by the way, it's just that where I'm from you can't cycle for 15 minutes in any direction without reaching a school. And also, you are only allowed to drive a car if you're over 18.
Posted by: der at December 18, 2006 7:16 PM
Marxy, do you go to the dentist often?
Posted by: dzima at December 18, 2006 7:19 PM
wake me when we get a dependable bagel chain.
Posted by: nate at December 18, 2006 10:17 PM
I have never had a cavity, but I am pretty sure I was blessed with good dental DNA rather than good brushing habits.
Posted by: marxy at December 19, 2006 12:13 AM
One time back in my high school days we hit up Dunkin' Donuts at closing time and they gave us a huge bag full of donuts bound for the dumpster. The next day at school, for a brief 8 hours, we were donut kingpins...
My only memories of the KK are from trips to Ocean City, MD and Myrtle Beach SC. Seemed OK to me.
So how long till we get a Waffle House up in this MF?
Posted by: Laotree at December 19, 2006 1:11 AM
Laotree, God as my witness, my sincerest dream is someday to open a Waffle House franchise in Osaka.
So… I'd estimate 20, 30 years from now? I'll get serious about the project after I finish my PhD, so it'll be a while, for sure.
Posted by: Carl at December 19, 2006 2:55 AM
We have reached an odd state of calm in "the wars". Click Opera is now haunted by -- nay, built around -- a demon-Marxy and Neomarxisme by a demon-Momus. Since these demons are effectively puppets in the control of their enemies, they can be made to commit stupid blunders which make it easy for them to be endlessly, heroically defeated.
The worry, of course, would be that if someone were to perform an exorcism, or chop the demon-puppets up, all that would be left here would be Marxy saying "I like donuts", and me saying "Here's me wearing my new wig onstage last night".
Posted by: Momus at December 19, 2006 5:32 AM
Curly Carl is an enjoyable idea.
Consider it evidence you don't think so highly of yourself to actually believe you're above criticism.
Posted by: check at December 19, 2006 5:50 AM
OH MAN. I'm not just a life-long Southerner (although I don't really self-identify that way, but still), Raleigh has had a KK as long as I've been born, so it's pretty much been a way of life. My senior shirt in high school boasted that in our year "The HOT light is on." Not only this, but I was actually at Governor's School at Salem College the summer that KK turned 65 and I could have thrown a rock out my dorm window and hit the cake KK made in Salem Square to celebrate. Oh, when I say 'cake' I mean 'giant cake made out of 14,000 doughnuts.' When they broke it down they gave it all away - boxes and boxes of goodness for us starving Governor's School kids. (Because the food on campus was terrible and most of us thought it easier to fast.)
So does than mean that my opinion carries more weight?? Does it??
So, my near-official word on Krispy Kreme is this: they are super good, better when hot, not good for you, but best for you if you are working on something and need a pick-me-up or have to go somewhere horribly early in the morning. Nice people give away their KK to others - pals and kind-looking strangers too. This is a good way to get friends. A quick late-night fly by when the HOT light is on has been proved to be successful on dates too. Another perk you might not think of right away: once a Krispy Kreme opens in your municipality, everyone instantly knows where it is, so it is a good point of reference when giving directions. I'm going to say that the plain glazed is the best, but there are many other varieties that are also excellent. My mom likes the plain cake ones the best, but she isn't from around these parts. Krispy Kreme >> Mister Donuts.
Posted by: lauren at December 19, 2006 7:57 AM
The Krispy Kreme invasion of Britain three years ago was interrupted by the company's near-bankruptcy and the stores they had opened started to look shabby when the money dried up. They have revved up again recently so it will be interesting to see if they can make it work.
Dunkin' Donuts largely pulled out of the UK in the 90's and they were owned at the time by a British drinks and catering conglomerate (who were responsible for buying Mister Donut and combining the two). Since it was sold to a US private equity group earlier this year, they have talked of getting back into Britain.
Dunkin' Donuts Japan arm, D&C, was bought by gyudon giant Yoshinoya in who ran it for 10 years before pulling out in 1998. Separately, Mister Donut sales and trademark rights for Asia (not just a franchise licence) were bought in 1983 by Duskin so the two companies were never combined in the 1990 global merger. A similar sales and trademark deal was struck recently by the owners of Tully's Japan so they are also independent of the original US operation.
Posted by: Mulboyne at December 19, 2006 11:19 AM
I was one of the first 100 people at KK on opening day and got the T Shirt to prove it. Bought 2 dozen glazed and a dozen variety, ate 1 dozen glazed myself, took the second to give out to my co workers since it was my last day at the company and the dozen variety got consumed at home. Best damn donut experience in many many years! BTW the first couple in line were cute as a button Japanese kids, the boy got a Golden Ticket and the girl looked just as happy as could be.
So Donut Plant really exists in NYC? I thought that was just marketing fraud. I could never imagine New Yorkers having such bad taste. I never saw them when I lived there. Theres one in Otemachi near where I used to work. Tried it a couple of times but it just tasted wrong to me. After a few months they stopped having real flavors and switched everything over to local flavors. I predict they will serve nothing but curry donuts within another year.
As for Misdo's appeal to women, I think the KK folks know that, the upstairs seating area is no smoking and has a "soft" color scheme.
Brad: I was looking for you or any of the other crew, what happened?
Mulboyne: So it was Yoshinoya who deprived us of Dunkin? I'll keep that in mind for when the right time comes. I liked Dunkin alot. Somewhere I still have some of there Parapa branded omake. Too bad they didnt just merge the donuts into the gyudon shops. Following up a nice bowl of gyudon with a donut might be damn good!
alin: "Mr Donuts are the only edible doughnuts i've ever come across. " Youve just destroyed the last of your credibility with me. Misdo tastes like paper pulp to me. No real flavor whatsoever.
Posted by: Your Humble Janitor at December 19, 2006 1:49 PM
Your Humble Janitor: "So it was Yoshinoya who deprived us of Dunkin?"
Without wanting to revisit the "Rich Kids" topic, strictly speaking, you should blame the Saison Group.
They were the Japanese partner when Dunkin' Donuts opened in Japan in the 70's. Separately, when Yoshinoya got into financial trouble, they accepted an investment from The Saison Group in 1980 and came under their corporate umbrella. Their "parent" decided they should merge with D&C which was the unit operating the DD stores. It was never really a match made in heaven. 1998 was a bad year for the Saison Group - they had to sell Family Mart to Itochu who later also became Yoshinoya's largest shareholder. Dunkin' Donuts was closed the same year so the root of the problem was the financial woes of the Saison Group.
Posted by: Mulboyne at December 19, 2006 7:24 PM
Mulboyne: thanks for that info. 1998 to nearly 2007, a good donut has not been available on these shores. Thank the gods themselves that KK has arrived in our blessed land.
Next year, the return of the King!
(Burger King that is)
Posted by: Your Humble Janitor at December 19, 2006 11:04 PM
True enough about Krispy Kreme besting Mr. Donut. I was so excited to try Mr. Donut on my first trip to Japan last year (I went to the one in Akihabara), but was incredibly disappointed.
And I generally agree with you, Marxy, but I have to disagree about Donut Plant--at least the one on Delancey St. here in NY (I never got to try it in Japan). Never having been a Southerner, my SI is 0, but I still think Donut Plant is far better than KK. Especially the fairly new cream-filled ones DP introduced in the last year or so. (Coconut cream is fantastic.)
But Dunkin Donuts, despite my childhood love for the place, falls far below Krispy Kreme. As my taste buds matured I realized it's really not that great.
So it's basically:
Donut Plant > Krispy Kreme > Dunkin Donuts > Mr. Donut
(I didn't count it as it's not a chain, but Gilly's, in Cleveland, OH, sits between DP and KK. [Yeah, I know I think too much about sugary treats.])
Posted by: DH at December 20, 2006 1:15 AM
This was discussed at lunch today and my friend says this:
"Yeah, well, sushi is too small and not sweet enough."
Indeed.
Posted by: lauren at December 20, 2006 5:10 AM
KK = Meh. I'll take a maple-glazed and a double-double from Tim Horton's instead. Then again, I don't count. My frozen north upbringing gives me a negative SI.
Posted by: shiny floor occupant at December 20, 2006 8:17 AM
Yes yes yes, Krispy Kreme are indeed the flavor kings and all others pale in their sugarjellycreamy shadow. I can happily and greedily eat seven of my dozen without drawing breath BUT...
How can it be that nobody has mentioned that Mister Donut has the mighty Pon de Lion and friends?! That has to count for something. During my first trip to Tokyo I searched till I found a MisDo to buy all the Pon de Lion merch they had available.
The doughnuts themselves: strictly okay. But the packaging: fab!
Posted by: Mr Phoenix at December 20, 2006 5:25 PM
Well, as possibly the only person in these comments within driving distance of both a Tim Horton's and a Krispy Kreme (Vancouver truly is a wondrous city), I get to render final judgment.
KKs are sweet. Really, mind-bendingly sweet. To a Tim's-eater, it's a bit odd at first. But while Tim Horton's produces reliable, edible doughnuts that one always has time for, they cannot match the diabolical draw of the HOT NOW sign.
So, if Burger King is Aragorn, is Krispy Kreme the Dark Eye of Sauron?
Humble Janitor: did that cute Japanese boy get a golden ticket, or a golden ring?
Watch for low-flying Nazgul,
Posted by: Ryan Cousineau at December 21, 2006 1:27 AM
I don't eat donoughts so I'm very unqualified but I'm curious to know which ranking best describes the market:
Fresh Kripsy Kreme > Mister Donuts > Cold Krispy Kreme
Fresh Krispy Kreme > Cold Krispy Kreme > Mister Donuts
Mister Donuts > Fresh Krispy Kreme > Cold Krispy Kreme
(Assuming that Cold Krispy Kreme > Fresh Krispy Kreme is impossible)
If the first ranking is correct then Mister Donuts would win the omiyage market notwithstanding Marxy's suggestion that you can stil use your microwave.
Posted by: Mulboyne at December 21, 2006 3:47 AM
Typo: doughnuts
Posted by: Mulboyne at December 21, 2006 5:09 AM
Fresh KK > Cold KK > Yellow Legal Pad > Misdo
Posted by: Your Humble Janitor at December 21, 2006 7:27 AM
I have vague recollections of elementary school math classes, in which alligators with mouths agape were used to represent the 'greater than' and 'less than' symbols (or were the symbols supposed to represent the alligators?). Following from that, the above formula means:
Fresh KK is eaten by Cold KK which is then eaten by a Yellow Legal Pad which in turn is eaten by Mister Donut
Which, curiously, would put Mister Donut at the top of the fried lard (and legal pad) food chain.
Posted by: DH at December 21, 2006 10:36 AM
I just don't get it.
After years of friends from Southern California extolling (endlessly, usually due to homesickness) the virtues of KK, I finally got around to eating a KK (or more...) at Sydney Airport.
My reaction was, "well, so? This is KK? Is this it?"
I didn't think "too sweet". Nor did I think "too big". I didn't even think "sweet baby jesus, this is heavenly". I just thought, "meh, a doughnut". Were my expectations too high?
Misdo do have the lasting factor though. Their doughnuts tend to keep a bit longer. KKs just seem to die if they're not hot...
Which reminds me. If you want KKs just make them yourself, it couldn't be easier, especially if you're Lebanese and know your mother's recipe for Leb doughnuts...
Posted by: 6810 at December 21, 2006 11:18 AM
I grew up in Massachusetts, home of Dunkin' Doughnuts, and worked as a contractor there for several years. DD's, in New England, are independently franchised, and of the same general good (not excellent) quality. In other parts of the country (notably New York City), the franchise rights have been bought by single large management companies, and the quality suffers.
(One note about DD's- the coffee at a good store puts Starbuck's to shame. Mild and tasty, but by no means weak.)
I have to say that a Krispy Kreme, before it is frosted, might possibly be a nearly perfect pastry. There's no way to know. By the time they come out from under that revolting glaze waterfall, they're quite revolting.
DD has the science of the cold doughnut figured. A good, cold doughnut has got to be a little crusty, even a touch waxy, but retain an inner moisture and tenderness. A little contrast keeps it from becoming insipid. Good with coffee, good on its own.
KK's rings come out hot (good) but soft, which would be forgivable if they weren't so damn sweet. They sold themselves as a kind of super-indulgent southern miracle. Which was fine as far as it got- and they made it to Massachusetts- but you can't eat more than one or two a month. Too soft and too sweet, and just not good cold. Added to this, they had REALLY BAD COFFEE. Weak and tapwater flavored.
Having said all that, I'm disappointed to learn that where I live now, Beijing, they used to have Dunkin' Doughnuts, but they all went out of business two or more years ago. Which is a shame, because the bakeries here stink. I'm not asking for doughnuts, but I could get better Chinese pastries in Boston or New York, seriously.
Dunkin Doughnuts > Mr. Doughnut/Tim Horton's/Bess Eaton/Honey Dew > Krispie Kreem > Entemann's
(The best doughnuts of my life I got in Japan, actually. Fresh made, calamari-sized doughnuts from a motorcycle-mounted fry machine inside the market in Otsu.)
Posted by: Willfro at December 24, 2006 12:25 AM
Willfro, where in Otsu and how long ago? You've piqued my interest as a resident. I've never seen this donut-cycle you speak of.
Posted by: Laotree at December 24, 2006 1:59 AM
My hometown KK is being rebuilt at the moment. Drag.
Posted by: marxy at December 26, 2006 4:04 AM

